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Production of brandy

Production of cognac is a process at once complicated and interesting.

Unlike vodka, one cannot reproduce the same quality of cognac every year.  The climate, the grape-harvests, the age of the oak barrels, the assembly, … a lot of factors play on the gustatory and aromatic virtues of the cognac.

The cognac is produced in the region of Cognac and in the 2 “départements“ Charente and Maritime Charente.  The vineyard area is roughly 75 000 Hectares.  And about 60 000 inhabitants make their living from cognac from a population of 800 000 from the Charente region.

In October the grape-harvest begins (white grapes, preferably of the variety white Ugni); the grapes are placed right away after the harvest in the pneumatic press.  The extracted juice is set to ferment immediately.  Addition of sugar is forbidden.  The obtained wine, preferably with raised acidity and a degree of alcohol of 9% is ready for distillation.  The whole process is attentively overseen, for the overall quality of the future brandies depends on this work.

The distillation process is carried out necessarily in the traditional Charentais distillation pots, and involves two steps.  The first stage is the attainment of the first distillate called "brouillis", constituting about 28 to 32% alcohol.  Only after the second step the distillation of this brouillis produces the "heart", constituting 68-72%.  That product is placed in cellars for ageing.  Thus begins the life of the future cognac.

 

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Brandies age in wooden barrels of type Tronçais or Limousin.  The oak was chosen because of its hardness, its low porosity and the extractive properties that it contains.  The barrels are hand-made, are burned on the inside and are filled with the future cognac for "maturation".

It’s in a dark warehouse where the oldest eaux de vie rest.  Their maturity attained, the storage Master puts an end to their ageing and transfers them firstly to very old barrels and finally to demijohns of glass designated by the term "Dames-Jeannes", that will allow the cognac to remain sheltered from the air for several decades without modification.


The extraction: The new eau-de-vie, stored in new barrels, absorbs the extractable substances from the wood and acquires a golden yellow complexion.  A part of the volatile components is eliminated...  The eaux-de-vie undergo an evolution of their complexion (a progressive passage from colourless to yellow) and of their flavors and bouquet (aroma of oakwood with a very light vanilla character).


Hydrolysis: This phase is preparation for an important evolution of the organoleptic properties (these are the characteristics that our sensory organs can perceive: the taste, the flavouring, the texture, the colour etc.).  The eau-de-vie prepares itself to "to digest the wood".  Its colouring tends to darken.


Oxidation:  The taste softens, the aroma of steamed oak disappears to the benefit of floral and lightly vanilla aromas, and the colouring asserts itself.  Progressively, year after year, the eau-de-vie obtains more and more softness, and the bouquet is enriched.  
Now this is the moment of assembly of the cognacs of different ages, giving birth to the final product.

 

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